Samnium Bikepacking Story

novembre 07, 2021

tempo di lettura 2 min.

INTRO: Samnium is a large territory that starts from Matese mountains and reaches the lands above the Trigno river, crosses the Biferno valley and climbs the green hills of Torella del Sannio, Macchiagodena and Campobasso, goes through the heights of Frosolone, Carovilli and Trivento, up to the beating heart of Pietrabbondante and Agnone, cradle of the people themselves, the brave Samnites. Shepherds and Warriors at the same time, people focused on herding and controlling the territory, ancestral supporters of freedom against the tyranny of the Roman Empire. Sannio is a territory where landscape and gastronomy come together to create wonder and delicacy, caciocavalli and pieces of cacio, "pezzata" and all kind of bread. "Samnium bikepacking story" project talks about a journey through history, a journey through tastes and flavors of yesteryear.

SAMNIUM PART I: I head towards the Tratturo Lucera-Castel di Sangro, an ancient road which crosses right under Campobasso. Tratturo used to be a green highway where herds of oxen, sheep, herdsmen and shepherd dogs have trampled over the years the many kilometers, starting from Abruzzi down to the plains of Puglia. Along the panoramic road of Oratino I go down towards the Biferno river and then I start the ascent of the mule track.

The first part is very steep and the pedaling is hard due to large stones on the trail. I push by hand up to the entrance of Castropignano. Once in the village, I take a tour of the alleys that lead me to the D'Evoli castle, then I go back to the road I just left. The dirt road I take from here is much more accessible, I also find some sheep to remind me that the Tratturo is still alive. The landscape around me is wonderful and I am surrounded by golden wheat fields, villages in the distance lying on the hills that stand out against the blue sky. Today I planned to ride 130km and the finish line is set in Capracotta in Alto Molise.

I am in Torella del Sannio, a name the is clearly of Samnite origin. The entrance to Alto Sannio is exciting, along the way I think of the battles and the history of these places and the blood shed to defend this small empire. I decide to visit the Morgia dei Briganti, the name says it all. This rock formation is a primordial monolith inhabited since the Protohistoric age and it is a living example of the first civilizations that lived in caves carved into the rock. Here I take a break. I resume pedaling on a dirt road that takes me to Bagnoli del Trigno while the water begins to run low and the heat takes over.

Bovianus Vetus is on the hill just in front of me, I am halfway to this first day. Next stop is at the Tempio Italico di Petrabbondante, where the history of Italy and the dream of those peoples in search of freedom began. I pay the ticket and go down to the square, sit on the steps and rest in silence. I try to listen to the speeches of the Samnite Meddis and the people who acclaim the speackers. Marsi, Frentani, Carracini and Peligni, here turned their backs on the eagle of Rome, refusing the oppression of the empire. I jump into the village, greet the statue of the Samnite Warrior, chat with the locals, and thanks to them I found a small road that takes me to Agnone, the village of the Osca Table and bells.

I am at 1200mt of altitude through the wood of the soprani firs of Pescopennataro, majestic evergreen trees, dark green pyramids. They call them "sopranos" for the value and quality of the wood. The small village is perched on a rock spur and it always used to act as a lookout on the territory. Last stop Capracotta, bizarre name, where the "pezzata" is a must of the typical cuisine. It is a dish based on boiled sheep meat with aromatic herbs, that shepherds prepared when moving the flocks from pasture to pasture. It is 8 pm so I decided to camp under a silver fir.

There is a restaurant nearby where I'll eat the "pezzata". The following morning is dedicated to the search for caciocavallo, the shepherd's cheese. I know where I can find it, I just have to get back in the saddle and go. From Capracotta I go down towards Carovilli through the magnificent MaB, Man & Biosphery in Montedimezzo reserve, then I go up towards Pescolanciano and Frosolone. I am at home here, I spent my childhood between these beech woods. The scent of boiled milk fills the air, I hear the lowing of grazing cows.

Coming out of the woods I find a cottage. It is Vincenzo the shepherd's place. I find him inside sitting while preparing the ingredients for the cheese. Caciocavalli are hanging from the ceiling ready for seasoning. While taking pictures of him working I realize this is a magical moment. I spend all morning in the cottage, home is only a few kilometers away from Frosolone. I drove 230 kilometers just for that, but it was worth it. I think about how much history there is behind this cheese, a recipe handed down from father to son, a tradition repeated for millennia. This is the shepherd's cheese, this is the Samnium cheese.